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Wednesday, April 27, 2011

The Last Post - Anzac Day and all - for now...



We are done - for now.  We said our 'farewells' to  Perth last week and have spent the past week touring southern Australia and have ended up back at Melbourne - about to fly home.  It has been a fantastic spring (or fall, as the Aussies remind us), completely different from pre-January.  We have decided it is a great place to visit - wonderful scenery and people, but we have not once cursed our ancestors for heading to Canada rather than down under.
Perth was significantly different than Melbourne - maybe 'Dallas-like'?  Lots of growth and wealth - and tremendous coastline and parks....but .....
Joan's older brother Lionel, and his wife Pat, flew to Perth April 12th and travelled about with us to end our adventure here.  They have not been out of North America, so we had a lot of fun touring about.  Coming from a large mixed farm/cattle operation in Saskatchewan, Rich determined that a couple of farm tours were in order.





And after the farm tours, a little day trip to Freemantle, Cottesloe beach, Kings Park, and around various sites of the Perth area.  The weather - as you can see, was still acceptable for swimming, though it had dropped to the mid twenties.  We spent our first three weeks in Perth with temperatures never dropping below 30C during the daytime.

....and we had a little fun.   It was tempting to leave Rich to his own devices - until we remembered that he was the keeper of the car keys.  Anyway, this device seems like it might have some potential - and a simple piece of technology at that.
 The birds are beautiful - lots of colour, and while not beautiful voices, not too terribly bad.....except for the crows!   They sound like they are dying - and are refusing to go out easily.  We woke to them almost every morning.   The magpies, on the other hand, looked similar to ours, but were relatively melodic.


And the trees grow tall!  We did a second tour of Margaret River country, and managed some similar (wine tasting, kanga chasing, and surf watching) and some different activities ( finding the Great Southern Ocean intersecting with the Indian Ocean, and driving into the depths of the forests).

Pat snapping landscape


The thinker?

wave watch
We managed some time to play in the waves - the boys managed some good abrasion from a bit of body surfing in some massive waves.  The undertow was incredible - easy to see how people can be sucked under.



We also managed a small tour north of Perth before our final exit - in search of Koalas - which we found - sleeping as usual - I guess it's hard to get 20 hours of sleep in a day if you entertain tourists too frequently.



And, we found some more agriculture - tomato trees - about six feet tall....amazing what a little heat will do for plants.
Oh yes - and camels.  Apparently Australia has more camels than most places - and export them to mid eastern countries.....from which they once had come.






Adelaide Cathedral
We flew from Perth to Adelaide -Rich now has the Qantas 23 kilo rule down to the last gram....which is good, considering they charge $15 per kilo over their luggage limit.  We're sure we didn't invest enough time in finding out what is wonderful about Adelaide - because it appeared somewhat limited - though we did see a few tremendous pieces of architecture.  The Aus tour book we had with us suggested Adelaide was 'bland' ---and we had some trouble proving the book wrong.  However - our real purpose was seeing the countryside around Adelaide -and that was all we knew it would be.  It was particularly lush this fall, and the vinyards were turning colour, so there were great crimsons and golds against a rich green background. 






McLaren Vale, SA
Surprisingly - Rich found several winneries to tour, managing to meet and have a lengthy discussion with the patriarch of D'Arenburg Wines.  As it turned out - Lionel also seems to enjoy a good red wine - which was quite a surprise to all of us- who new cowboy boots and grenache -shiraz mixed so well!
Wine gods - owners


Grampians National Park
 From wine country we drove to the Grampians National Park - in search of a bit of hiking - and found it.  Rich got some spectacular pictures from the top of this rock.



Unfortunately, most of the roads through the park were still ( as in, for more than two months) closed from flooding that had occurred in early February.  We were unable to get to much of the area we wanted to see....We also managed to get caught in a wicked rain storm - fortunately it was short-lived.  Had it not been, the roads might have been.  The only real adventure was when Rich and a kangaroo got into a tangle - We were driving and fortunately for kanga and car, the breaks worked well, kanga did one full roll, got up and hopped away.  We checked the bumper....no damage...all was well!

 Before getting into Melbourne we managed one last drive down the Great Ocean Road - or at least the Ocean part of the Road.  We don't think we could ever get tired of the landscape along here.  Different light produces a different canvas each time.
Just another site on Great Ocean Road
This time it was a cloudy day, and a holiday - the crowds at the Twelve Apostles were incredible, though many of the other look outs had relatively few people.  We saw different sights with different lighting than on our previous trip.  absolutely breathtaking!

Grotto on Great Ocean Road


 And finally, into Melbourne where we spent our last few days visiting, wandering the coast at Port Melbourne, visiting the Victoria Market in search of a few touristy trinkets....and attending 'Hairspray', a fun 60's musical showing at the incredible Princess Theatre.  We are now on our flight home -looking forward to seeing family - fields and floods - before heading back to Europe in June.

Sun setting over Australia

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Margaret River touring

South Coast, near Denmark (WA)
We had 21 days of 30 plus weather!  Obviously the curse has been broken.   The past few days have been cooler - 24-26....but we are managing.  As much as this is a 'holiday' of sorts, it has also been steady work the past three weeks - Rich is back to working seven days a week - and Joan just can't leave the editing of her papers alone....but that ended today.   Rich will be writing - forever - it seems. 
stalictites

limestone stalictite






 Now, having suggested it has been all work - we managed to sneak away, along with a travelling grad student,  to Margaret River area and south for three days last weekend.

Two hours south of Perth - we came across limestone caves.  Apparently there are three hundred of them in the area.  The one we went down into (about 60 metres) was a babe - only about 400 million years old.  It was discovered about 140 years ago by an Aussie immigrant, and has developed into quite a tourist stop over the years.  Fortunately, this is late fall, and there are very few tourists beyond us....just the way we like it.

It was hard to believe this one was not a blanket with pinked edging....but no - just millions of years of dripping limestone!


art -fully-done -winery

After being in a stuffy, oxygen deprived cave, it was time to find beaches....but Rich won out - so we managed a winery stop first.  This was a great little place ----there are over 50 great little places in the area -  This one, however, was home to an interesting artist, and a farmer (we think it was the "Farmer's Daughter) who was starring in a TV reality show called "The Farmer Wants a Wife"  Now - only Australia, in our minds, could have this as a hit show - farmers are held in some reverence here -  Anyway, we had actually watched part of one show only several nights earlier.  The 'farmer' served us wine, and told us how the series would end for her - though it was not airing until the next week.  She was the only 'she' on the show as farmers go...the other 5 were male. - Oh - that is - one for each state....  The show has been running 6 seasons - maybe this can be a substitute for Canadian Idol?  Canaaadian Cowboy?  Canadian country bumpkin?  Canadian Cultivator Needs a Hitch?

double dude
                                                       Finally - the beach.  Can you believe it?  We stumbled across a surfing competition.  OK - technically the competition did not start until the next day, but all the stars were there rehearsing.  We knew they were star surfers - well, at least good amateurs - because the prize board had $50,000 for first prize and slightly smaller increments for a number of other prizes.  We watched the surfers - both female and male, until the sun set.   And - there are some gorgeous sunsets beyond Saskatchewan.

surfer photos
They surfed above, around, under each other.  It was amazing no one came in on a stretcher....or rather - left on a stretcher.....or maybe that is why the sharks stay at bay...in bay....hmmmmm


sunset
The surfers looked like they took this seriously.  We heard several different languages being spoken, again a sign this was attracting international attention  -  The sign at the top calling it a 'world event' had been our first clue....but you know how that can get overused at times.  Anyway, we managed to see the free event - training - and we awed by their abilities.   And - they didn't seem to want to leave the water - As the sun set, twenty or more remained in the water, looking for that ONE perfect wave>>>

dolphins?

more roos
Into Margaret River for the night - but not before spotting some kangaroos - always a pleasant diversion.








Next morning we did the Gray thing - see how far you can drive on back roads until you almost run out of gas ---  We made it to a pace called Walpole on the southern coast of Western Australia - and found, along with great coastal scenery , several spectacular National Forests - spectacular because of the height of the trees - phenomenal! 




up in the air

nice trunk

We came across a tourist thing - a walking path suspended near the tops of the trees - and wandered about it.  The trees, tindles, are often quite hollow at the trunk.  It is hard to know how they remain standing....but most do for hundreds of years.











Again, too much heat, so, off to the beach - This time we found one that was devoid of people - and wandered along the coast, climbing up rocks a kilometre down the coast.....until we decided there was a tide and we were at risk of being cut off from land....It would have been a better story, but we are getting to the age where wisdom is beginning to trickle in at times. -
beautiful coast


traversing rocks

tide in- out - ??
billabong
We scrambled back, drove inland, found a billibong, waded out to some rocks in it, had a refreshment and - almost felt like we were on the canoe trip on the Churchill - ah - except the water was incredibly warm.
We had managed to get ourselves about six hours from Perth - and in such a small town that we had the 'small town rooms attached to the local bar' experience  - relatively cheap, no bedbugs, no sirens....all good.  A quick drive home the next day  with a few scenery stops - and finally - tea and scones with clotted cream!  The ultimate treat! 

We have only 10 days left in Perth - then a week between Adelaide and Melbourne!

Post script: Oh, and by the way - Rich's bike is working out well - he has a 45 minute ride to DAFWA when meeting there, or a 5 minute ride to campus.  The previous DAFWA option was a bus and ferry ride that took 1hour 45,  or a walk that took 2 hours plus....and he has wheels, technically, so is happy.  He excitedly found Joan a bike several days after getting his - The next day she went for physio and was told -the worst thing for the shoulder  is bike riding.....jog, walk, run, jump, unicycle maybe....but do not bike!!!!  - ah well, some Aussie is happy about getting a bike off her hands....and the next renter of the apartment will be happy to find two bikes and a helmet in the courtyard (maybe).

More to come ---

Monday, March 21, 2011

Across a Continent - on the road again...


The Indian Ocean - fall in Perth
Four hours in the air from Melbourne to Perth - and no small Saskatoon type plane.  This is one large continent for a relatively small population.  We said our goodbyes to Melbourne on Thursday, and are now in Perth.  Because of luggage restrictions on domestic flights ( ok - not quite true - for $15 a kilo, you can take all sorts of extra luggage.....or....buy a seat at twice the cost), we are down to one suitcase each.  That would have easy enough for us except that Rich's suitcase included a small barbecue....can't leave home without that....and Joan's held a printer...hmmmm...today's essentials have morphed a bit.
Port Melbourne City Hall

Our farewell tour of Melbourne the evening before we left included a two walk walk by some of our favourite sites and happenings, including:

A municipal City Hall with great pressence

Some 'run of the mill' Victorian architecture

The South Melbourne market - where produce and meat/fish were always fresh and generally cheaper than the grocery stores.

Some great old building - perhaps a theatre at one time, nearby our apartment on Victoria street

Add caption 

Theatre ?





The market

 












Just another building
We had grown to really like Melbourne, but are thinking we will say the same of Perth - for different reasons.  Perth is a sprawling city.  Fortunately, we are close to downtown - but separated by King's Park and the river.  We are on the edge of King's Park, which is hectares and hectares big.  There are many bike trails, and parks everywhere.  The campus of Western Australia is beautiful, and has a number of great old architecturally interesting buildings.  Our apartment is reminiscent of Paris - in size only - back to about 400 square feet - though this one has a lovely little outdoor patio.

Home sweet temporary home


baseball of sorts.....
Added feature - we can watch cricket everyday in the park across from the apartment - or play tennis on the multiple grass courts a block away, or swim, or bike ( Rich couldn't stand not having wheels, so managed to find a used bike to buy today).




We are a distance from the ocean - well - about a ten minute drive....so won't be by it every day, however had a colleague of Rich's from the U of WA drive us around on Sunday - the water is so warm and clean.  It was - well - just what we hoped the Indian Ocean would be.  We had  a tour of Freemantle -an extension of Perth - architecture inspired by a gold rush and similar to Melbourne.

Flying

Beach scenery


Freemantle buildings