C'est l'hiver!

Who knew the weather forecasts could be as far off here as they are at home?  Or as important - though in our case, only in terms of deciding how many pairs of socks to put on to stay somewhat warm in the apartment.  Lovely architecture, but insulation had not been thought of.  We are in a 'deep-freeze' by Paris standards.  We have had a week with temperatures remaining below zero - getting as cold as -6 at night.   To give this perpective - the average temperature is about plus 9 right now.  Does this mean unseasonably warm weather the last two weeks of December?

Rich's colleague, Giannis, returned with us from Sweden to attend a workshop and do a bit of collab work.  Rich managed to get him into the Latin Quarter one night for food and drink...and music, but, not before a stop at Shakespeare & Co.  What a place!  The books are endless, and just there to be read ( or, sometimes bought).

Joan had a former intern from her school get in touch with her.  Alyssa and friend were travelling Europe for the fall, and currently in Paris.  Joan met them at ....yes...Shakespeare & CO. and took them for lunch.  Great visit.  While Joan was waiting she picked up a book from the shelves ( of many thousands) and began to read - a story about an espionage agent - who met in one of three restaurants/bars in the St Germain district.   As she walked home, out of the blue - there were the three places the book had referenced!

It is now December,  Rich is busy, busy trying to get things done.  A colleague from Guelph and his wife are coming for four days next week.  We will get a bit more touring in!  Good thing for Rich, because he has worked more and 'reflected' less than we were hoping.  He should try not to be so interested in every idea that comes along!  Joan is now officially done class work for this term - last term paper to be posted tomorrow, so, she has begun 'walking the city' every day.   Great architecture everywhere!

 Christmas is definitely coming, and they say Christmas in Paris is quite amazing.  Certainly the window displays would suggest there is much to look forward to in the next few weeks.  Hmmm - everything from frolicking polar bears to pictures of Marie Antoinette observing the happenings in a somewhat bored manner.  We have been told the lights are well work seeing around the city.  Christmas markets have been set up along the Champs Elysses, and apparently there are several other good ones in St Sulpice and St Germain areas.

Even the Metro entrances get dressed up in this city.  Absolutely amazing.

 The flower shops have trees - a hundred euro will get you a two metre tree....Maybe that explains shy most trees are shorter.  They come in a variety of colours, - traditional green, as only real trees can be, to bright read, purple, teal, pink...you name it, they have it.

Our apartment really feels like home now - we have no idea what we will do with all the space when we get home.   It turns out, 40 metres square is just fine. 



Stay tuned for more 'Christmas in Paris' next week.   Maybe a shopping blog will be in order?  Richard is hoping to go to the antique market again tomorrow, and Joan may just join him this time.  Should be an experience.

In Search of Snow - north to Sweden

November 17th - and we were off to Sweden - one of the lovely perks of research - you get to go where you never thought you might.  As with any good adventure, it began with a bit of adrenalin and no shortage of probabilities.  We left for CDG airport in 'lots' of time, taking the metro.  First twist - the stop we were to change lines at was closed, so we backtracked.  We made it to Gare du nord where we were to catch the RER (train) for the final leg to the airport - second twist - trains were delayed....and the 5 minute delay kept repeating itself.  Just as we were contemplating how Air France might respond to our delemna, a train arrived.  Just as we thought we would make our flight, the train stopped in the middle of nowhere, waiting for who know what....We knew we were toast -  then - it slowly started moving....finally getting to the airport about 30 minutes prior to our flight leaving.  Next twist - our flight was not on the departures board.  We found an Air France agent who sent us in one direction where we got our tickets....only to discover our gate was at the opposite side of a very large airport.  Net result? - no problem, we are used to hiking - so we made it ust as boarding was commencing.



Two and a half hours later ( Sweden is a long way away!) we arrived at Arlanda Airport (  half way between Stockholm and Uppsala).  It looked like we were landing in Regina....snow, some bush, some open field, hoar frost on the trees....  The most notable difference from Paris? The quiet - absolute quiet - and that was in the airport.  Oh, also, no garbage or dog droppings on the sidewalks...

Off to Uppsala.  Uppsala is about 170,000 but feels like a small prairie town; friendly people, a bingo hall ( full of seniors), wide clean streets, oh, but no trucks.  In fact, almost no cars....the bike is the primary mode of transportation.  Bikes were everywhere. Beyond that, public transportation seems to be the way to get anywhere...and things run on time.

Walking seems to be a common mode of transportation as well.  No wonder those Swedes are so healthy!
Rich got some work done, Joan wandered around and even did a bit of shopping for the two  royal treasures back home, and then, off to Stockholm.
  We took the train - everything is efficient - it was exactly on time and ran at 205 km.  We were in Stockholm in about 40 minutes and found our hotel quickly.  Supper with friends ( Shaun & Josephin, and Giannis). 

We spent Saturday and Sunday morning wandering about the 'old city'.  The architecture is amazing ( we use that word a lot don't we....must just like the old stuff).  Again a different style from what we have seen.  It was evident that Sweden had gone thorugh some very wealthy times in the previous centruies.






 

Christmas was out and about.  There were all sorts of 'market stalls' with Christmas decorations, foods, and gifts.  since we only travel with 'carry-on', this limited our investment.

 We managed to find the Nobel museum and spent an interesting few hours learning a bit more about Nobel, the awards, and various recipients over the years.

We think Stockholm would be beautiful most of the year, but a driving wind and slush limited our view, and enthusiasm somewhat.  Ah well, one can always find grogg to warm the soul. 

Stockholm is somewhat pricy - we paid more for meals and hotel than you would in Paris, but we were glad to be there for a short time and would love to go back during a slightly warmer season...I bet they say that a lot about Saskatoon or Regina...

Next....time to get some work done for both of us, though we will try not to let that get in the way of some further adventures.

Le blitz des femmes !

How to make time fly? - invite an artist/photographer friend who has never been to Paris, along with a friend who has been several times and 'sort of' remembers where to go - and proceed to 'do Paris'....and surrounding countryside...for a week...non-stop - Richard's job? - download 800 photos, go to patesserie each morning, go to work, pick up wine on way home from work, find piano bar for evening.  He did fine ---

Notre Dame from behind - note the flying buttresses

For anyone planning to come to Paris remember, you get in at about 9:00 a.m. so get to experience a walk across the city or 'orient' yourself.  Notre Dame with it's flying buttresses are always good on a Sunday.....and when the sky looks like it did in this photo, the crowds are very limited, making it easy to saunter around inside.

Shakespeare & Co

Sherry found Shakespeare for us.  What an incredible little bookstore - full of second hand books to buy or to cozy up with in one of the half dozen tiny reading rooms upstairs - chairs, couches, day beds....or a piano, depending on the room you choose to make yours.

Mummy? or  "Mesmerized at the Louvre"

 Monday was a rain day (everyday was a rain day, but initally we were hoping to take it one day at a time), so the Louvre seemed most appropriate.  Shaune, being the artist, was able to give us a play by play of what and why....and when and how.  Sherry drank in the ambiance and took this photo - not sure if this was her after spending a day with her grade nine students, or her next project for the students to inflict upon each other...       Richard is looking for a body suit like this to disguise his office naps.

Nike

A full day at the Louvre should be enough in itself, but, as luck would have it, we were there during an evacuation order.  We were told ( in French and English) to proceed to the nearest exit immediately and wait for further instruction.  This repeated for about ten minutes.....while we kept trying to find an exit....not an easy task, even with signage.  We noticed some people coming, some going....and when we made it to the entrance...to exit...we asked the person at the gate what was happening. She said she knew nothing about an evacuation, so we should continue with our touring....the French sure know how to deal with a perceived crisis!

Stairs, stairs, stairs

Sacre Coeur in Montmarte

Tuesday was scheduled to be the least rainy day ( weather forecasts are no further advanced in Europe than at home).   We headed to Montmarte in search of Sacre Coeur, interesting art, and the Montmartre graveyard to search out Degas' tomb.  We found everything we were looking for and more....the Moulin Rouge appeared as we wandered down one street.  Because it was raining ( assume the same for remainder of week) there were very few artists in the square, however we found a wonderful little shop on a side street where a young artist was working and displayed her paintings.  Several purchases were made and we were offered un cafe ou the.

Montmartre's pas

Somehow the 'official photographer' missed the windmill on the top of the

self explanatory

Moulin Rouge, but it is still there... along with a million sex shops etc nearby.














The cemetery was very interesting... built on different plateaus and ranging from quite simplistic to extremely elaborate.  Some were several hundreds  of years old, while others recent...famous dukes, artists....         

Immortalized

It seems that this fellow  did not want to leave this world.

On our walk down from Montmartre as we attempted to find the Opera Garnier ( streets are not on a grid....), which we did not find that day, we came across another tiny church.   They spring up on every street corner.....

Lafayette Galleries...

From there, we ran into the Galleries Lafayette - shopping for the affluent.  This group did not have any shoppers, so no checking out the 2500euro shoes, but we did need to take a peak at the interior of the gallery itself...( 'look but don't touch' must have come from here)and, as you can see, Christmas has found it's way to Paris.  Many windows are beginning to fill with Christmas/Winter displays.  It promises many beautiful evening walks.  Oh...and while at the Galleries...Shaune and Sherry were taped/interviewed for a movie...?

view from the Arc de Trimophe

 Nice lights on the way home....A visit to Paris requires a trip to the top of the Arc de Triomphe ( Etoile Charles de Gaulle)  and a photo of the Tour Eiffel in the relative near distance.

....and
around and around and around down the stairs  to the street below.

Versailles

 Wednesday was Versailles day.  Thanks to Brian & Lyn (former friend's visit), we managed the trains without getting misplaced.  There was relatively little rain but....Il fait froid!  We toured the gardens first....for four hours, before returning to the Palace....even at this time of year, with most of the plantings removed, the gardens were incredible.  Next time....and there will be a next time....it will be to spend the day in the gardens.  The most interesting fountains appear everywhere.  It goes on and on and on.

 From what we could tell, these buildings in the Queen's village were like Vegas, or Disneyland today - and adult theme park allowing the royals to feel that they were 'one' with nature....though apparently the insides were not in keeping with the somewhat rustic exteriors.  Not a bad play area just beyond the petit trianon and grande trianon palaces....down from Versailles itself.....

Only really strange thing of the day - little figurines of Marie Antoinette in the gift store....without a head....tacky?  On second thought - the modern Japanese art sculptures that show up in places like the Hall of Mirrors is aalso an acquired taste....

Cathedral in Chartres

Thursday we headed to the town of (significant city by our standards) Chartres, a 75 minute train ride from Paris.  Shaune explained that she needed to see a cathedral ( see above....they are EVERYWHERE in Paris....) so we went.  Richard joined the group as it was Remembrance Day - au Paris aussi - The cathedral was incredible.  We climbed the bell tower as well.  What a view!  The strong winds and lack of 'safety' features ( Europe seems to believe that people should be responsible for their own idiocy....so assume some commonsense....) made it a little more exhilarating than expected.

Our return train was cancelled, we have no idea why, so we wandered around and saw some interesting architecture while we waited.  Fortunately, trains ran every hour ( above being the exception), so we made it home by eight.




We went to the D'Orsay museum on Friday - no pictures allowed, and being Canadian, we were the people following the rules.  We went out for supper in an interesting little restaurant near Saint Sulpice, and followed up with a piano bar.  Rich was happy.  Saturday was market day - Joan went to the food markets, Rich accompanied Sherry and Shaune to 'the' antique market.  It is billed as the largest antique market in the world.  It was incredibly interesting....and incredibly precious....no 'deals' to be had.  Air Canada arrived this morning....the apartment is 'empty'....

Sherry, Shaune, and Joan...in a cav...

C'est tout pour une autre semaine!  Off to Sweden later this week.

In the Neighbourhood

This has been a quiet week - Rich has been working ( nothing new there) - He is excited about his work again - so the sabbatic is working!  Joan has been doing lots of professional reading - and exploring the neighbourhood.       We are very fortunate to live close to the historic part of Paris...ok...basically in it, while at the same time being far enough away ( ten minutes?) from the major tourist site.   There are some incredible pieces of architecture surrounding us.   Most buildings were constructed between the 1870's and 1920's.  The iron work is incredible, as is the detail around cornices etc.







 This isn't our home - our apartment is in one of the few very simple 'in-fills' , but we are still very happy with it.  It has ten foot ceilings, fancy coffering, and beautiful chandeliers.
 The picture on the right is taken just outside our apartment door.  Apparently there are 19,000 people per square kilometre.....just a bit more dense than we have at home!   This is particularly interesting when you consider the huge amount of area given to park ( see later in blog) which is averaged in.  Saskatoon has about 1,500 per square km.  Most buildings are 6-7 stories high.  There are no real 'highrises' in the area, but no single family dwellings either. 

Much of the architecture is similar....Guess that happens when built in the same general time period, however there are always lots of little details to look at that add a unique character.




Aside from being near the Tour Eiffel, we are also a short 20 minute walk to the Etiole Charles de Gaulle - known to many as the Arc de Triomphe.  It is amazing to watch the traffic maneuver....with no painted lines.    We managed to snap a picture when there was little traffic.  It is fantastic to watch in the early evening  when the sun has gone down....(five o'clock now)...with lots of traffic and lights.   We have yet to see a minor accident, so drivers seem to know what they are doing.

We have several parks close by.  Paris has done a great job of leaving green space for people to use and explore.  Parks tend to have play areas for children, walking paths for the adults, and, wild and strange statues....some classical, some honouring French heroes, and some....just fun.... 







We have two parks within 10-12 minutes from us.  One is several hectares and includes several small lakes.  The colours have been amazing this lately.  November in Paris is quite beautiful.  We did notice, however, that canoes have not yet been 'discovered' here.  Somehow, a rowboat just doesn't seem right - but it is the Parisien way....

We have two friends coming tomorrow- Shaune and Sherry.  Shaune is an artist, so we're looking forward to seeing Paris through her eyes.