Au Revoir Paris

Tour Eiffel glitters on the hour -

looking out our apartment window

 It is Christmas day - in Paris.  The sun is shining, not a cloud to be seen.  The brisk breeze, -3 temperature, and patches of snow on the ground make it seem 'just like home'.  It seems we may be here during the coldest period on record.  What luck!  But - Paris is Paris - and even cold and snow cannot take away the history and the ambiance.


We have spent our last few days in Paris wandering back to a few of our very favourite places and discovering one or two more along the way.

Rue de la Tour- our corner

 The local 'corner' just down the block from us will be remembered fondly.  Two bakeries, a boulongerie, shoppe de fromage, flower shop, pharmacie, brasserie/cafe, chocolate shop, wine cav, jewellery store, hardware shop, vegetable and fruit market, and two 'supermarkets' crowd the corners.  Joan found herself there several times a day doing that 'Parisien' shopping....and of course, bread must be bought daily....

Walking down our street

wandering down a street

 The hours spent wandering were one of our favourite parts of being in Paris.  Everywhere there is another interesting fence to see or door to admire.  It doesn't seem to matter what part of the city we are in.

Just another door

A different neighbourhood

Musee d'architecture

 We have strolled past the Palais de Challot countless times on our way towards Notre Dame, St Germaine or Montmartre, or during the evening to view the Eiffel Tower.  The other day we decided to check out the Architectural Museum located in one half of the Palais.  There were numerous replicas of doorways and other aspects of famous buildings ( still existing, such as the Cathedrale at Chartres).  A second floor was dedicated to modern architecture and detailed some of the environmentally friendly building projects, and social housing projects happening in Paris today.  All very interesting.

Une Chantreusse a la piano bar.

Richard found a great little piano bar in the Latin Quarter.  We have been back there several times and heard several different performers.  One, in particular, was exceptional.  She was from South Africa, performing in a musical in town, and doing this little gig on the side.

We have also enjoyed several great jazz concerts on Rue Lombard. 

a little jazz

 We stood in line in pouring sleet for twenty minutes the other night to get decent seats ( we had purchased our tickets prior to that evening....they tend to sell out).  It was all worthwhile.

Au Bon Coin

 We have been introduced to some great restaurants.  Our favourties are ones that are 'off the beaten track', and where we have to struggle to be understood ( as in, English really is a foreign language).  We have enjoyed so much great French cuisine....and have tried a few dishes that were completely unfamiliar to us.















While we have been known to walk 5-6 km to get  to a restaurant or a show, we generally take the metro home late at night.  Often, the entertainment continues there - typically budding musicians looking to make a few euro, however, occasionally something quite different - like this puppet act that 'magically' appeared at the front of the metro....with sax...

 One can never predict what will show up next.

 A final walk through Parc Monceau.  While it is very different in December than it was several months ago, it is still beautiful - and just as uniquely strange.  We will remember the beauty of the many parks found throughout Paris, and will return in warmer months at some point in the future to enjoy their beauty during a greener season.

 A farewell walk to Montmartre .  This has been a tough season for the street artists- hardly a dry or warm day in the past two months.

On the walk home, we found yet another amazing brasserie/cafe, and enjoyed un vin rouge as we warmed ourselves for the final leg of the journey.  The ceramic tiles that lined the walls were amazing.  It felt - so Parisien - and the best part - filled with 'locals' - wandering without a map has afforded us several of these wonderful discoveries.

What will we remember the most about our time in Paris?  Wonderful walks - incredible architecture and metal work - a beautiful little apartment up 72 steps - museums and monuments - beautiful parks - and wonderful visits with friends.  We are excited to be going 'home' for a few weeks to see children and granddaughters, and of course, are looking forward to the warmth of Australia, but it is difficult to be leaving Paris.  It has been ..... magnifique.....

Christmas in Paris

Aux Champs- Elysses  Au Revoir Paris!

Stay tuned - more in a few weeks -

C'est Noël à Paris

Notre Dame in twilight

skating at Hotel de Ville

Christmas season in Paris is amazing.  Markets spring up everywhere, though seem to consist largely of food booths, gloves & hat booths, and jewellery shops.  We have found le vin chaud well worth the three euro as we walk about the slushy streets.

Skating rinks magically appear, and while they might look 'out of place' some years, the weather suits them right now.

Christmas markets

Galleria Fashion

Down to our last few weeks in Paris, we have been attempting to see and do 'just a few more things'.  A person really could go to a museum a day in this city - at least for a year, and perhaps for life -  and the decisions - to see the Monet exhibition at le Grand Palais, or, to see the Monet permanent collection at the Monet musee.  This, of course, does not count the Monets seen in Musee D'Orsay, and there were probably a few in the Louvre...who can remember!   Joan has found there are museums and galleries for anything and everything, including fashion....



The Musee Rodin had an incredible garden with some of Rodin's sculptures scattered about.  This will warrant a return trip in warmer weather.  His 'Gates of Hell' were amazing-and disturbing.  One glitch with this visit - we forgot the camera!  Fortunately, a few of Rodin's works were to be found at the next gallery - in le Petite Palais, which is worth seeing just for the building....

We had one last friend/colleague of Rich's visit for several days this week so managed a bit more night life- some great music/singing in a piano bar in the Latin Quarter, lots of walking, and, of course, a stop at Shakespeare.

 The city really is 'decked out'.  Many stores have beautiful displays creating a sense of winter, or wonder, or sometimes just elegant confusion.  Les grandes magasins have some of the most incredible window displays and people are lined up six-eight deep to see them.  As you might expect, the crowds around attractions like the Eiffel Tower have waned, but the crowds in and around the stores have become incredible.  Police are often found directing pedestrian traffic at intersections.

 Generally, the more lavish the decorations, the higher the price tag if you are looking to consume.  It is great eye candy, however, and in the evening the entire city seems to 'sparkle'.

Window display at Printemps

 Some of the window displays are aimed at children, while others are 'fashion statements' aimed at - who knows.  These were just a few examples of what appears in store windows.  As you might guess, the really great displays had too many people in front of them to get close with the camera, so these will have to suffice.

and another display

People everywhere

 People everywhere!  We managed to get out of here quickly, and found a quieter street just a few blocks away where we could begin some of our own Christmas shopping.

Dior enfants

Of course, with the grandbabies, there is a real purpose to our shopping this year.  Joan has been on the look out for some real 'Parisien' outfits for the two little princesses.  Who knew Dior did children's clothing? And, who can afford to buy these outfits???  If the number of Baby and Children's clothing stores are any indication, there is a baby boom going on in Paris.

And then there are the adult clothes....one is reminded that Paris is all about fashion -
For thirty to Fifty- five thousand euro, 45-70 thousand dollars - Joan could have a lovely dress for the festive season.

The price list corresponds to the picture on the left - this was the most reasonable shop we found on the boulevard.  We may not come home with too much new in our wardrobes....

Someone's Paris but not ours....

...and then there is Prada...

Just before he is asked to leave...

 Well, enough window shopping!  Time to get back to our reality.  So much more to see and so little time left.   ( Hey, is that Richard doing his Christmas shopping????). 

Our Paris

Another look at our town

St Sulpice (Da Vinci Code)  & fountain

supper - magret du cannard - au St Sulpice nighbourhood

We are only a couple of weeks away from leaving Paris.  The time has flown - Rich hasn't gotten as much research done as he wanted- though has been sidetracked by many 'interesting' discussions, and Joan has not seen as many museums or wandered as many streets as she had assumed she would.  We did find some great jazz clubs, and have spent several evenings enjoying great music.  We have also found that we have had a wonderful time with friends who have put Paris on their agendas this fall.  This past week we had a visit from friends from Ontario who are also on Sabbatic for the fall - in Holland.   We are hoping to do a 'return visit' next June - when we can do some biking explorations.

hmmmm a lense issue - or is it just like home?

Note, by the way, the weather has not improved much, though did get slightly better while friends were here.  France seems to be in the same deep-freeze as Saskatchewan is experiencing.  Last week the trains and even buses were shut down one day while the snow came down - and stayed for several days.   The staying part is definitely something Parisiens are not used to.





By the way, seems we have not had many pictures of Richard, and in case people are wondering - he really is in Paris along with Joan.....just seems to want to control the camera much of the time.  Note the lovely red mitts ( thanks Lyn).  We may stand out -as fashion statements in our own rite ---- but we do have warm hands!

Richard - but in Paris or University Drive?

Sunset in Paris

 Back to the story - so with friends here - we headed up to Montmartre on a relatively clear day ...we have also not seen sun in almost a month.  We went to Sacre Coeur where you can get a fantastic view of the city on a clear day.



Sunset can even be pretty in Paris....and that tower seems to get into most pictures.

Sacre Coeur

shopping for meat at the Boucherie

oops - supper?

Note the selections in a boucherie on our walk down from Sacre Coeur - Good thing we had everything we needed back home.  The lapins - while cute in a pet store - didn't seem quite right in the butcher shop.  Ah welll-

A little night life

Nike

Mona

Yes - turns out Rich is here

Having visitors has been a wonderful way of making sure we get out and about in the city.....particularly for Richard.  This time, with Alphonse and Maureen here for a few days, we were able to re-explore Montmartre, the Latin Quarter, Notre Dame, and....we ran into Hotel de Ville ( city hall of sorts), complete with skating rink and a display of local talent from the civil service.  It really was great.      We made it to the Louvre - Rich's first visit this trip - and while Joan had been before she saw things she had not before.

Hotel de ville - with a skating rink

 No visitors seem to escape a visit to Shakespeare and Company - and here we are - coming downstairs from several of the reading rooms above.

We made it to les Invalides - Napoleon's tomb, and monument - It was an incredible building with frescoes on multiple ceilings.  It was also a good reminder of the tremendous contributions he made to 'democracy' as we know it today. 

Joan seems to be interested in the inlaid marble designs in the floor.  With a bathroom to finish at home, perhaps Richard can get a bit creative and Joan has the glass cutting tools from stained glass projects...hmmmmm

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Along with the great architecture, and marble sculptures that go on forever,   there was also a 'military church' - complete with trophies (flags) of conquered countries during various battles over the past centuries.  Apparently there were over a thousand, however most were burned prior to the Nazi invasion.  One hundred and four remain.  As well, there are war museums, and a vidoe tribute to de Galle.  We spent an hour listening to that - could have spent more.  It was good to put his 'vive Quebec libre' into the context of his life and fight for France.

'trophies' (flags) at les Invalides

And of course, we cannot leave Paris without a trip down the Seine.  We had hoped for warmer weather ( in fact, we had delayed the trip for almost two months waiting for 'seasonable norms'...but wrapped up in our ---- red mitts----and set out.   As luck would have it- the rain and snow had raised the level of the river by several metres - so the boat was unable to go nder the bridges by Notre Dame/Ille de cite, so the trip lost something, however....still well worth while.

 One more trip to the Arc de Triomphe on the Champs Elysses....and a farewell to another set of friends.  Now - with only two weeks to go, it is time to do some Christmas shopping....and that will really be an adventure if this typical ( and we  do mean typical...this is fashion central after all) window display is any indication.     
                                                                                                                                                                             

shopping will never be the same again